There are six alternatives. Do you first hear the compressor running? Do you hear a loud buzzing noise followed by a “click”?
The compressor is most likely not working properly. The defrost timer is the simplest to check.
Take a look at the lower panel next to the floor for a defrost timer knob. Turn it a little and see if the compressor runs and the cooling begins, or if the compressor buzzes. If it does, the defrost timer is most likely faulty.
The second possibility is that the compressor is defective. The most expensive repair would be this one.
Third, there is a thermostat to control the temperature. If there is only one temperature setting for both the refrigerator and the freezer, it could be set to open. If there are two, the chances of both being faulty are slim.
The fourth thing to look for is any air coming into the refer area from the fan. If not, you have a limitation.
Fifth, if this is the case, the best course of action is to manually defrost the unit. If you can move your belongings to a temporary unit (another fridge/freezer, cooler, etc.), defrost the unit by unplugging it and waiting several hours, which could be several hours unless you speed it up with warm air introduced into the freezer section.
Then, once the unit has been defrosted, restart it and check to see if it is cooling. Check the temperatures in the refrigerator and freezer.
If it appears to be working properly and cooling the fridge side, you have a defrost cycle problem rather than a coolant (Freon) problem.
This could include a thermistor, defrost heater, timer, circuit board, and other components. The first step is to keep an eye on the defrost cycle.
If you can manually advance it and it appears to defrost, you may have a timer problem.
You must have a clear view of the coil inside the freezer to monitor the defrost cycle. If it melts the ice off the coil, your defrost cycle is working properly.
If not, you must test the heater’s thermistor. If it’s good, turn on the heater.
If those are satisfactory, the cycle timer may be defective. I’m not sure how to check or change the cycle on a newer digital fridge, but on older models, you can manually set the timer to different parts of the cycle.
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You can turn it and listen carefully to see if it is making any noises, or you can turn it until it clicks and then wait for the fridge to do something.
If the fridge is cycling on and off or otherwise sounds normal, the problem is not with the timer and will return to the defrost cycle.
The thermistor or the timer are the most common non-cooling issues I’ve ever encountered (I’m a handyman who helps friends and family).
4 Reasons Why Your Whirlpool Refrigerator Freezer is Cold but Refrigerator is Warm [with Solutions]
If a Whirlpool refrigerator freezer is cold but the refrigerator is warm, common part malfunctions are frequently to blame. However, there are some simple fixes that you can perform at home. We’ll go over each possibility to see if a repair is necessary.
#1. The refrigerator is overflowing
If you’re wondering why my fridge isn’t cold but the freezer is, it’s possible that your refrigerator is overloaded.
When a refrigerator is overstuffed with food, cold air cannot circulate properly between the compartments and individual items. The refrigerator cannot keep its interior cool without proper air circulation.
Here’s how to improve air circulation in your fridge and avoid overfilling:
- Throw away old food containers and spoiled food.
- Clean the interior of the refrigerator with a clean cloth and warm soapy water.
- Rearrange shelves to improve airflow.
- For optimal air circulation, keep the refrigerator 34% full.
- The freezer in my whirlpool refrigerator is cold, but the refrigerator is warm.
Whirlpool Condenser Coils are Dirty
Dirty condenser coils cool refrigerant, allowing the refrigerator to maintain a cool temperature. If the coils become clogged with dust and debris, they may be unable to function properly.
As a result, your refrigerator will not get cold, but your freezer will keep its temperature.
- Cleaning the condenser coils, which should be done every 6-12 months, can restore cool air to the refrigerator. Cleaning the coils of a refrigerator is as simple as the following steps:
- Disconnect the refrigerator from the power source and look for the condenser coils.
- Vacuum dust and debris from the coils and surrounding area with a narrow hose vacuum attachment.
- Using an appliance brush, remove any stubborn particles.
- Remove any remaining debris with a vacuum.
Reconnect the refrigerator to the third power source. The Evaporator Fan Motor is Faulty
A faulty evaporator fan motor is a common part malfunction when your Whirlpool refrigerator does not cool but the freezer works fine.
This motor drives the fan, which circulates cold air over the refrigerator coils. Without this fan, the refrigerant will not cool sufficiently to keep the refrigerator temperature stable.
If the evaporator fan blades are difficult to turn or the fan motor is unusually loud, it is most likely faulty. While a lack of continuity on a multimeter can confirm this, a faulty fan motor requires professional replacement.
The Defrost System Failed
If any part of the defrost system fails, ice can begin to accumulate on the evaporator coils, causing the refrigerator to work harder to keep cool.
When a Whirlpool refrigerator freezer is cold but the refrigerator is warm, these defrost components are frequently to blame:
The defrost control board determines how frequently the defrost function is used. If it fails, the defrost function will not work.
Defrost Thermostat: monitors the temperature of the evaporator coils. If it fails, the temperature readings may be incorrect, and the defrost cycle will not be activated when needed.
Defrost timer: works with the control board to turn off and on the defrost function throughout the day. If it’s broken, the refrigerator won’t defrost as much as it should.
When your Whirlpool refrigerator freezer is cold but the refrigerator is warm, contact the
Whirlpool refrigerator experts. Call us today to make an appointment!
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